The Roman Empire is considered one of the most significant and influential in the history of humanity; it has left a deep mark on world culture and various areas of human life. Studying the structure of this ancient civilization, the way of life, and the everyday life of the ancient Romans constantly takes place and opens up new pages of human history hidden under the veil of centuries.
An interesting evolution is the usual, from the point of view of today, item of men’s wardrobe – trousers, which in imperial Rome went from forbidden clothes, considered an attribute of wild barbarians, to a mandatory wardrobe item.
Why trousers in Ancient Rome were considered a powerful symbol of “otherness”
The most commoners’s clothing in ancient Rome was a simple tunic that left the legs open. The tunic was also the main item of women’s and children’s clothing since the Mediterranean climate did not require wearing fabric from knee to toe.
It was a garment made by weaving linen or woolen fabric in one piece, with a cutout for the head and arms. Over time, the tunic became floor-length. Silk tunics were made for special occasions. Often, decorations indicating rank and wealth were placed on the tunic.
The Romans did not wear trousers, which were considered barbaric clothing and a symbol of “otherness” since they were an item of clothing among various Gallic tribes, Huns, and representatives of other uncivilized cultures.
History knows an example of this when Cicero, speaking in defense of Governor Fonteius, referred to his opponent’s wearing of trousers as a sign of “barbarism” and as an extenuating circumstance for his client.
When trousers began to be considered a sign of the “exotic” habits of the Germanic tribes
The Roman view of this issue began to change just a century later, when the historian Publius Cornelius Tacitus, born almost 100 years after Cicero’s death, called trousers an “exotic” habit of the Germans. Tacitus continued to use this men’s clothing as a distinctive symbol of the barbarians but no longer considered it a sign of rudeness.
Yet, during the campaigns against the Gauls, the Romans were impressed by the clothes worn by their enemies—trousers allowed them to move easily and kept them warm.Visit. A F R I N I K . C OM ,For the full article. Although they did not look exactly like ordinary trousers—they were shorter and narrower, like breeches or leggings—it was easier to fight and ride in such clothes than in a tunic.
The Romans also began to wear trousers, but only on the battlefields. They still did not consider them an item of clothing for every day, and no matter how comfortable the trousers were, they continued to consider them barbarian clothing.
However, in a short time, trousers became quite common clothing: for infantrymen, they were sewn from cotton and wool, whereas knights preferred a leather version and a longer length, which guaranteed better skin protection of the legs.
Why was there a law in Ancient Rome prohibiting the wearing of trousers to civilians
At the end of the IV century, wearing trousers in the Roman Empire became so widespread that two emperors of the West and East issued a decree banning wearing these clothes. According to the decree, any Roman seen wearing trousers was subject to confiscation of property and lifelong exile.
However, this should not be understood as an attempt at cultural repression in the Roman Empire. In fact, the decree was aimed at prohibiting civilians from wearing clothes that were considered purely military. At a historical moment when tensions in society were high and civil wars, coups, and uprisings constantly threatened emperors, it was important for those in power to be able to recognize possible threats.
It is unknown whether the imperial ban on trousers impacted Roman society and whether it was implemented. Still, despite this, over time, trousers finally established themselves as the main clothing of men throughout the Roman Empire.
When the top with sleeves and trousers became the official uniform of the Roman court
A century later, when Rome fell under the onslaught of Germanic tribes, Roman fashion completely changed – wearing men’s trousers became a common practice. For some time, many Romans wore short tunics covering the hips while the rest of their legs were covered with trousers.
In the late fifth and early sixth centuries, the remaining representatives of the Roman palace in Constantinople even began to wear trousers as an official uniform. Their main clothes were fitted tunics with long sleeves and long trousers. All those close to the emperor wore exactly such clothes.
The ban on trousers in ancient Rome was due to the Romans’ dislike of other cultures. The transition of Roman society from tunics to trousers was also due to a change in social values. Thus, the Romans called trousers “barbarian clothes” and went from contempt to acceptance.
